Hands on with Ballon Bleu de Cartier Flying Tourbillon and extra-flat

Feb 22, 2014,09:27 AM
 

The Ballon Bleu de Cartier : I (Magnus) always had a soft spot for this collection, not necessarily for myself, but for my 'better half'. Luckily, this affection is shared smile


The Maison considers this collection as their most 'out of the world' creation, a bridge between history and innovation:

"A watch from another world, formed of beautiful curves, as beautiful as a promise yet to come...
a meteorite fallen from the sky: the Ballon de Cartier watch.
A distillation of the Maison’s watchmaking style; born from a blend of the past and the future...
Launched to great acclaim, the watch has since continued on its incredible trajectory of success."
[Cartier Press Kit]

This year we were shown two very intriguing novelties, both of which will mark a reversed trend as much as the brand's aptitude to talk fine watchmaking through restraint: The Ballon Bleu de Cartier Flying Tourbillon and Ballon Bleu de Cartier extra-flat .

As usual, we start with the former, the Flying Tourbillon :




The timepiece is not exactly new, as its movement (calibre 9452 MC) has been in existence at Cartier since 2008, albeit in a substation 46 mm case. Novelty this year is a new significantly 'reduced' (and teasingly sexy) case with only 39 mm diameter, which makes the flying tourbillon even more stand out.

We were shown the red gold version with grey flinqué dial. A blue enamel dials exists also (which we regretted to have missed, what a symbol for a Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch…)



The movement is certainly one of the top creations of Cartier (albeit resembling a bit a Vacheron Constantin movement…) and is certified according to the criteria of the Poinçon de Genève (both movement and watch itself). Assembly and adjustment take place in the Cartier workshops in the heart of Geneva, just a floor above the Cartier Boutique:




Cartier itself writes:

"In its new size, the Ballon Bleu de Cartier Flying Tourbillon watch is defined by a unique elegance. Its dimensions will appeal to men looking for a compact watch with a modern tourbillon and which, in addition to its soft lines, is characterised by great comfort. An exercise in harmony and proportion, today the case has a thickness of no more than 11.4 mm." [Cartier Press Kit]

Aficionados will rejoice!







Pro:

Superb aesthetic integration of case, strap, dial and complication - with an extremely sexy outcome
Excellent finishing
Finally a unisex complicated watch!

Con:

Too small for some (but there is an alternative anyway)
Hands might be a but more pronounced
Finally a unisex complicated watch!



On the opposite end of the complication scale Cartier created the second novelty, the Ballon Bleu de Cartier extra-flat:





"To desire the Ballon Bleu de Cartier extra-flat watch is to admire the refinement of an accessory on which time has little effect and which stands out on the wrist for its concentration of rigour and style."

Less is more, Cartier style: 40 mm diameter with only 6.9mm thickness. Driven by a manufacture movement with manual winding, calibre 430 MC (née Piaget), hidden behind a solid cold case back.



All Ballon Bleu de Cartier timepieces are delicately designed, especially round the crown. However, this design feature get most attention with the ultra-flat case of this piece:



It is feathery light on the wrist which might be irritating at first. Overall, the flatness effect is not as pronounced as with other comparable watches, e.g. from Piaget. Perhaps its in the Ballon case itself that imposes some limitations.





A statement, or shall we call it a conclusion?!





As a "tradition" Cartier commissioned once more a comic strip book to communicate the Ballon Bleu watches. This year its entirely created by four female artists (Kan Takahama, Japan; Nadja, France; Posy Simmonds, UK; Rebecca Dautremer, France), for a good reason:

"(…) The privilege of commencing this nascent book of hours fall to the comic strip.

Our reasoning was very simple: as a women’s watch is the star of this edition, why not ask female illustrators to contribute? An idea with a lot of potential, not least because more and more women are contributing to the comic-strip scene. For this new showcase, we were spoilt for choice. And our four queens of the comic strip are a truly royal match for the sparkle of these irresistible new models." [Introduction Ballon Bleu de Cartier comic book]

In an almost philosophical fashion the four strips cover intricate aspects of living with luxury: first contact, eternal beauty, its effect on human behaviour and finally the passing of it from one generation to another (seems to be a de rigeur motif in Geneva…).

Here are a few impressions:










Pro:

Superb aesthetic integration of case, strap, dial and complication (just like the Flying Tourbillon, but at other end of complication range)
Outstanding combination of colours (red gold/anthracite)
Very subtle 3D usage on the dial
Charming presentation!

Con:

Ballon bleu case does not express flatness very well
Movement invisible (but its not a Cartier inhouse anyway)


More posts: Ballon BleuFlying TourbillonSeiko PresageSPB069J1

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Cartier in depth review on the collection from SIHH 2014

 
 By: small-luxury-world : February 22nd, 2014-09:19
Cartier is something like a synonym for refined luxury, style and elegance. In other words, its creations sell on many different aspects of the luxury trade, fine watchmaking being one of them - but not an essential one. Cartier could have lived without, ...  

Hands on with Calibre de Cartier Diver

 
 By: small-luxury-world : February 22nd, 2014-09:21
An unexpected watch for a house like Cartier, the Calibre de Cartier Diver is an addition to the successful Calibre de Cartier collection, a collection that houses a first for the brand: its first completely in-house automatic movement (more a bit below)....  

The Calibre Diver is one of most important watches of the SIHH

 
 By: foversta : February 22nd, 2014-14:35
I was seduced by this watch which manages to be a diving watch while keeping all the Cartier details! A very refined diving watch. Thanks for the article! Fx

+1, certainly one of the most significant watches of the show...

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : February 24th, 2014-08:02
perhaps comparable to the new Montblanc Heritage collection. Magnus

Cartier Calibre Diver - it's an important model for Cartier

 
 By: ThomasM : February 27th, 2014-13:14
Cartier Calibre Diver dive watch - it's an important model for Cartier, but for me, I was much more impressed by their fantastic jewelry pieces and high complications. I'm normally not a jewelry watch aficionado but their Metier des Artes models are just ...  

Cartier Dive watch - well built, practical, well priced

 
 By: ThomasM : February 27th, 2014-13:26
Mind you, the Cartier Calibre Diver is well built, practical, well priced and almost for sure will be a commercial success...just not to my personal taste. It is very handsome on the wrist... ...  

Your fine pictures clearly reveal the weakness of the design ...

 
 By: Marcus Hanke : February 28th, 2014-03:23
... which , IMHO, takes all the communication regarding the dive watch ISO, tool watch characteristics, etc. ad absurdum: The dial is cluttered with so many white lines, shapes and outlines, that the most important element of the watch, the hands, practic... 

Black finished hands?

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : March 3rd, 2014-00:53
Marcus while I understand some of your criticisms (summary: 'take a toolwatch serious'; consequence: no luxury brand will ever build a 'real' one) I think you are on the wrong track re: hands: they are polished steel (or gold plated with the RG version), ... 

Well, on all the pictures I saw ...

 
 By: Marcus Hanke : March 3rd, 2014-02:41
... the metallic part of the hands appear to be black, even on the PR pics, which normally tend to show the optimum, regarding contrast and legibility: When looking at the difference between the polished end of the minute hand's pin and the hand itself, ...  

Hands on with Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire and Earth & Moon

 
 By: small-luxury-world : February 22nd, 2014-09:23
This year, two timepieces illustrate the notion of technical creativity and excellence according to Cartier: the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch and the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch. Both bear the mark of an innovative and unique inter...  

Two innovative watches...

 
 By: foversta : February 22nd, 2014-14:37
I needed time to fully understand the charm of the complication of the Earth & Moon. But now, I am seduced by the ability to have an "animated" moonphase display! The AstroCalendar displays an impressive arena which attracts our eyes! What a superb la... 

Speechless ...

 
 By: Marcus Hanke : February 28th, 2014-03:27
... well, nearly so. The Earth & Moon is simply gorgeous. Despite its size, but as you wrote, this is inevitable. I love that unique tourbillon moonphase, this is true watchmaking art by Cartier. the AstroCalendaire ..... nice try. But the lack of leg... 

Hands on with Rotonde de Cartier Day and Night as well as Tourbillon Chronograph

 
 By: small-luxury-world : February 22nd, 2014-09:24
Under the header 'Creative Elegance' Cartier pays homage to historic signature features of its history and places elegance at the heart of its approach to watchmaking. Three iconic timepieces have been selected for this exercise in style: the Rotonde de C...  

The addition of the moonphase display is a wonderful idea...

 
 By: foversta : February 22nd, 2014-14:39
The Rotonde Day and Night is one of my fav Cartier of the year. I love its original and poetic hours display... Thanks for the presentations! Fx

Movement must be from APRP

 
 By: Goldenlutin : February 24th, 2014-12:44
I think that the 8 days chronograph tourbillon movement is from APRP and not from Claret. You can find a quite similar movement in various RO from AP. Best, Goldenlutin

Correct...

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : February 25th, 2014-00:28
and updated. Sorry for this lapsus! Magnus

Hands on with Tank Louis Cartier and Tank MC Two-tone Skeleton

 
 By: small-luxury-world : February 22nd, 2014-09:25
With this year's offerings in the Tank collection Cartier intends to combine two of the Maison's historic recognition features into one, well actually two, timepieces: The Tank watch itself, part of Cartier's heritage of shaped watches since 1917, and the...  

Aaah, the Louis Cartier...

 
 By: amanico : February 22nd, 2014-10:32
One of the few watches which captivated me during the SIHH... I stood there, speechless, during several minutes, in front of the window display, admiring the jewel... Yes, a jewel, a strong piece of elegance. In my top 5 winners of the SIHH, this year. De... 

The Tank Louis Cartier Skeleton is stunning...

 
 By: foversta : February 22nd, 2014-14:42
One of the top 4 watches of the Salon. It is elegant, contemporary, charming... I could spend hours watching its movement. A true beauty. The MC looks less refined... it plays a different tune. Thanks Magnus and Oliver! Fx

Hands on with Ballon Bleu de Cartier Flying Tourbillon and extra-flat

 
 By: small-luxury-world : February 22nd, 2014-09:27
The Ballon Bleu de Cartier : I (Magnus) always had a soft spot for this collection, not necessarily for myself, but for my 'better half'. Luckily, this affection is shared The Maison considers this collection as their most 'out of the world' creation, a b...  

nice evolutions...

 
 By: foversta : February 22nd, 2014-14:44
The Tourbillon watch looks balanced and despite its reduced size, I had pleasure to put it on the wrist. About the extra thin Ballon Bleu, it is a perfect context to use the Piaget movement. Thanks Magnus and Oliver! Fx

Cartier Balon Bleu wristwatches - I am a huge fan!

 
 By: ThomasM : February 27th, 2014-13:55
Even the iced out model looks stunning...that chocolate model is ...almost irresistable! ...  

Cartier @ SIHH 2014 - conclusion

 
 By: small-luxury-world : February 22nd, 2014-09:29
Cartier plays on all levels: "tool" watches, small and big complications, niches - not to mention jewellery, luxury goods and so on. For customers and connoisseurs of the brand it is just perfect to have such a big choice. For their own sales people it mi... 

Cartier...

 
 By: Mark in Paris : February 22nd, 2014-11:04
...as a watchmaker is really a new concept for me, even if they've been producing watches for ages. I'm not a Cartier fan as a watchmaker. Nevertheless, I see it as a great jeweler. But the least I can say is that from these last years they trully showed ...  

Since 1874...Cartier has quite a long history as a watchmaker...

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : February 24th, 2014-08:01
at its origin intended as a discipline to expand/complete the jewellery lines of the luxury house. 'Serious' watchmaking (as we Purists might define) is of course a child of the 21st century… You may want to take a look at Cartier's journey through their ... 

Cartier was the most active and creative brand of the Salon

 
 By: foversta : February 22nd, 2014-14:46
A sportive and all-around watch, innovative complications, charming skeletons... I think that Cartier offered us the fireworks of the Salon! Thanks a lot for this comprehensive report. Fx

Magnus and Oliver, Thanks!! Outstanding coverage of Cartier!

 
 By: MichaelC : February 26th, 2014-08:33
Definitely a brand that has become much more exciting in the past few years in terms of the watch lines. I really need to look them over more closely next time I am at my dealer.

Excellent Review in-depth Cartier watches SIHH 2014

 
 By: MTF : February 26th, 2014-23:44
Dear OliMag, Thank you for this in-depth review of Cartier watches from SIHH 2014 to follow the previous Quick Look reports by PuristSPro. Having missed the SIHH 2014 due to moving house across 2 continents, I was glad for the efforts of FrX and you both ...