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Hands on with Ballon Bleu de Cartier Flying Tourbillon and extra-flat
Feb 22, 2014,09:27 AM
The Ballon Bleu de Cartier : I (Magnus)
always had a soft spot for this collection, not necessarily for myself,
but for my 'better half'. Luckily, this affection is shared
The Maison considers this collection as their most 'out of the world' creation, a bridge between history and innovation:
"A watch from another world, formed of beautiful curves, as beautiful as a promise yet to come...
a meteorite fallen from the sky: the Ballon de Cartier watch.
A distillation of the Maison’s watchmaking style; born from a blend of the past and the future...
Launched to great acclaim, the watch has since continued on its incredible trajectory of success." [Cartier Press Kit]
This
year we were shown two very intriguing novelties, both of which will
mark a reversed trend as much as the brand's aptitude to talk fine
watchmaking through restraint: The Ballon Bleu de Cartier Flying Tourbillon and Ballon Bleu de Cartier extra-flat .
As usual, we start with the former, the Flying Tourbillon :
The
timepiece is not exactly new, as its movement (calibre 9452 MC) has
been in existence at Cartier since 2008, albeit in a substation 46 mm
case. Novelty this year is a new significantly 'reduced' (and teasingly
sexy) case with only 39 mm diameter, which makes the flying tourbillon
even more stand out.
We
were shown the red gold version with grey flinqué dial. A blue enamel
dials exists also (which we regretted to have missed, what a symbol for a
Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch…)
The
movement is certainly one of the top creations of Cartier (albeit
resembling a bit a Vacheron Constantin movement…) and is certified
according to the criteria of the Poinçon de Genève (both movement
and watch itself). Assembly and adjustment take place in the Cartier
workshops in the heart of Geneva, just a floor above the Cartier
Boutique:Cartier itself writes:
"In
its new size, the Ballon Bleu de Cartier Flying Tourbillon watch is
defined by a unique elegance. Its dimensions will appeal to men looking
for a compact watch with a modern tourbillon and which, in addition to
its soft lines, is characterised by great comfort. An exercise in
harmony and proportion, today the case has a thickness of no more than
11.4 mm." [Cartier Press Kit]
Aficionados will rejoice!Pro:
• Superb aesthetic integration of case, strap, dial and complication - with an extremely sexy outcome
• Excellent finishing
• Finally a unisex complicated watch!
Con:
• Too small for some (but there is an alternative anyway)
• Hands might be a but more pronounced
• Finally a unisex complicated watch!
On the opposite end of the complication scale Cartier created the second novelty, the Ballon Bleu de Cartier extra-flat:
"To
desire the Ballon Bleu de Cartier extra-flat watch is to admire the
refinement of an accessory on which time has little effect and which
stands out on the wrist for its concentration of rigour and style."
Less
is more, Cartier style: 40 mm diameter with only 6.9mm thickness.
Driven by a manufacture movement with manual winding, calibre 430 MC
(née Piaget), hidden behind a solid cold case back.
All Ballon Bleu de Cartier
timepieces are delicately designed, especially round the crown.
However, this design feature get most attention with the ultra-flat case
of this piece:
It
is feathery light on the wrist which might be irritating at first.
Overall, the flatness effect is not as pronounced as with other
comparable watches, e.g. from Piaget. Perhaps its in the Ballon case
itself that imposes some limitations.
A statement, or shall we call it a conclusion?! As
a "tradition" Cartier commissioned once more a comic strip book to
communicate the Ballon Bleu watches. This year its entirely created by
four female artists (Kan Takahama, Japan; Nadja, France; Posy Simmonds,
UK; Rebecca Dautremer, France), for a good reason:
"(…) The privilege of commencing this nascent book of hours fall to the comic strip.
Our
reasoning was very simple: as a women’s watch is the star of this
edition, why not ask female illustrators to contribute? An idea with a
lot of potential, not least because more and more women are contributing
to the comic-strip scene. For this new showcase, we were spoilt for
choice. And our four queens of the comic strip are a truly royal match
for the sparkle of these irresistible new models." [Introduction Ballon Bleu de Cartier comic book]
In
an almost philosophical fashion the four strips cover intricate aspects
of living with luxury: first contact, eternal beauty, its effect on
human behaviour and finally the passing of it from one generation to
another (seems to be a de rigeur motif in Geneva…).
Here are a few impressions:Pro:
• Superb aesthetic integration of case, strap, dial and complication (just like the Flying Tourbillon, but at other end of complication range)
• Outstanding combination of colours (red gold/anthracite)
• Very subtle 3D usage on the dial
• Charming presentation!
Con:
• Ballon bleu case does not express flatness very well
• Movement invisible (but its not a Cartier inhouse anyway)