Cartier

The year 2015 promises to be very important for Cartier with the unveiling at the last SIHH of a new collection whose purpose is to meet the same success as Ballon Bleu. Clé (key in French) is more than just a watch but a symbol of the ambition of growth as evidenced by the availability of three different sizes (31, 35 and 40mm) and the quick presence in stores as early as April. Even if commercial success is not an accurate science, Cartier has the means to achieve its goals using some recipes already implemented with Ballon Bleu like the discrete originality of the  case and the specific crown. Clé, whatever its size, is distinguished by:

   - its smooth and curved case with a slightly curved glass
   - its classic dial that features blue Roman numerals
   - the original shape of the crown and the way it operates explains the name given to the collection
   - and the use of a new movement, the 1847 MC.


The version of Clé with a diameter of 40mm is naturally the one dedicated to men even though it may well be worn on a lady's wrist. Given its role and its commercial ambitions, it embodies a consensual style and without any real asperity. The main advantage of this watch, especially by the way with this size , is the successful design of the gold case. The lines are harmonious, with some rounded shapes while remaining very slender. The case gives the feeling, when seen in profile, that its central body is put on floating lugs. The watch appears to me as either round or oval, depending on the angles, and this visual effect is particularly nice. With the front view, Clé makes me think, especially in the way in which the lugs extend the case without aesthetic rupture, to some watches designed in the 60s.  This mix of modernity and reminder of the past is a point which raises the charm of the watch.


However, the case would lose much of its interest if it wasn't created to highlight the already famous crown that brings the true originality to the watch. The shape of the "Clé" crown, all in length, faceted and profiled is surprising at first. It requires a small period of habituation to master its handling. And its behavior is not the same in the different positions.


In the winding position,  when it is not pulled out, the crown causes great sensations evoking logically that of a key with a "click" when returning to the normal position, aligned along the case. It is both pleasant and rather fun. However, when pulled out by one step (date setting) or two steps (time setting), it runs like a traditional crown. So I enjoyed this manipulation although the paradox is that the person who will wear the watch will not have the will to wind systematically the movement  since it is powered by an automatic one. I also liked the integration of the set sapphire which ideally matches the shape of the crown. However, I felt that the quick date system was not so quick ... several turns of the crown were needed to advance the date by one step. Nothing serious though.



The dial could not be more in the Cartier spirit with the central guilloche part, the Roman numerals, the "baton" hands and the peripheral scale. Clé offers a central second hand and a date window that I find wisely  positioned at 6 o'clock. Actually, the designers worked well to reduce the feeling that this window is a bit too far from the bezel (the diameter of the movement is 25,6mm). The color of the numbers is the little extra when we compare the Clé dial with the usual dials. Their blue color is well balanced because very often the numerals appear as almost black what does not bring any surprise to the traditional clients of the brand. When light conditions change, the blue is revealed and enlivens the very classic dial.


Clé is important for Cartier because it also introduces a new in-house movement, the 1847 MC. This movement clearly has the objective to replace the ETA movements which still power several models in the Cartier collection. So this is a movement designed to be efficient, reliable with high production figures. In other words, the aim is not to transcend the beauty of the watch thanks to its finish and lay-out but to bring an accurate and uneventful  performance. Unlike the 1904 MC which is positioned, in my perception, at a higher level, the 1847 MC is equipped with a single but fast barrel that coupled with the bi-directional winding rotor ensures excellent winding efficiency what is  useful taking into account the 42 hours power reserve.



Cartier took the decision to use a sapphire crystal on the caseback to make the movement visible. I do not think it is a good idea even if it makes sense from a business perspective. Because the 1847 MC is anything but a nice move to observe. It embodies the intelligence of its design, its effectiveness but certainly not a charming side. I sincerely regret that with a watch of this price segment, the decorative approach was put aside. Because  at the end it is a feeling austerity which dominates: the winding mass doesn't bring a sufficient visual constrast with the movement and a meaningful work improving the perceived quality would not have been useless.


I think it would have been relevant for Cartier to offer a superior finish movement for the gold Clé (eg a gold or openwork winding mass) creating a qualitatively higher standard when the movement will be used in the context of cheaper watches.

White gold:



Fortunately, this concern fades once the watch is put on the wrist. Due to the shape of its case, its curves, the watch is comfortably positioned on the wrist either with the leather strap or the metal bracelet. The mission dedicated to Clé is to accompany its owner in any circumstance and it proves to be well designed when we consider this point. Without real asperity, consensual, it was created to please the greatest number of customers  in the context of a global strategy. It has in my opinion everything which is required to meet this ambition. But it is absolutely not a piece  for watch collector or enthusiast in my point of view. It is far too wise for this type of clients despite the originality of the crown and the finish of the movement is not what I expect in this price segment for a gold watch. Of course, an in-house movement is a good point but the maturity and expectations of customers  change, increase and the decorative dimension must be at the right level. The future enlargement of the collection and the introduction of steel case will undoubtedly make the finish of the 1847 MC movement more consistent with the retail prices.

Rose gold with bezel set:



Thanks to the team Cartier for its warm welcome during the SIHH and at the Capucines Paris boutique.

Pros:
+ An aesthetically pleasing case
+ The feeling when the winding crown is handled
+ The comfort on the wrist
+ The discreetly blue Roman numerals

Cons:
- The decorative finish of the movement is too weak for this price segment
- A little too short power reserve and the number of turns of the crown which are required to move the quick date

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