foversta
[PuristSPro Moderator]
20814
Hands on review of the Santos Dumont Calendar Aperture Power Reserve
It may be strange but we don't speak very often about the Santos Dumont line. I think it is a pity since these watches are a very good example of elegant watches with rectangular cases. Actually I should not use the word "rectangular". If we take the Santos Dumont Calendar Aperture Power Reserve, in a pure mathematics point of view, its case is rectangular (38mm x 47,4mm). But if we consider the overall shape by including the lugs, it is a different story. The watch looks square and this feeling is reinforced by the dial opening.
The great asset of this Santos Dumont is its very balanced dial. It features two additional complications, the date on the top half of the dial and the power reserve display on the bottom half. The designers chose to use a large window which is in this context a very good idea. I'm usually not a fan of this system but it works very well on this dial. The window creates a mirror effect with the fan-shaped power reserve indicator. The two additional complications are located vertically and on the edge of the central square part of the dial. These locations bring character to the watch and allow to preserve almost all the roman figures on the peripheral part. The roman figures are a key element of the Cartier DNA so this preservation is very important. Only the I and the XII are really overlapped by the two displays.
Of course, this design will ring you a bell... it was actually used previously on a Tortue of the Collection Privée and I think it works better here. I only express my personal taste and I much prefer the case shape of the Santos Dumont than the Tortue one.
The successful design of the dial is also emphasized by the flawless finishings. It makes alternate the parts with guillochage and the parts used for the time display: the minute scales on the central part and the hours scale on the peripheral part. Two types of guillochage are combined: the main one creates sunrays effect from the central point of the watch. The second one is circular and used inside the power reserve display.
I have to confess that I have a soft love for the pink gold case design. The Santos Dumont case is now enlarged (and it is also thicker with a height of 9,3mm) what gives it more character. But the most important is preserved: its elegance. I explain this by its slender style and the flat bezel. Moreover, once put on the wrist, the lugs seem to become very shy: the perceived size is smaller than it is actually. The lugs create a continuity with the case and it is an element of style of the original Santos Dumont watch. The case design is completed by the seven-sided crown set with a faceted sapphire. Thanks to this shape, it can handled very easily what is a good point for the daily handwind operation.
The watch features a solid caseback which is a good option due to the style of the watch:
The watch is powered by the caliber 9750 MC. The bottom indicator is at the end not so useful since due to the power reserve, the movement needs to be wound everyday. But who cares after all since this display nicely decorates the dial? The watch due to its design, its style, its atmosphere requires this daily contact with its happy owner. More than an elegant watch, the Cartier Santos Dumont Calendar Aperture Power Reserve is a life-style watch.
It is something which becomes clear when it is put on the wrist. Its charm is indisputable. Actually, there is something magic with it. You will not find any original detail if you observe each of them. But when considered as a whole, the watch manages to combine elegance with very subtle character and originality. Maybe a paradox for a watch which finds its roots in the beginning of the XXth Century... but this paradox is the main explaination of its successful design.
Fr.Xavier
This message has been edited by foversta on 2014-09-21 14:35:49
The great asset of this Santos Dumont is its very balanced dial. It features two additional complications, the date on the top half of the dial and the power reserve display on the bottom half. The designers chose to use a large window which is in this context a very good idea. I'm usually not a fan of this system but it works very well on this dial. The window creates a mirror effect with the fan-shaped power reserve indicator. The two additional complications are located vertically and on the edge of the central square part of the dial. These locations bring character to the watch and allow to preserve almost all the roman figures on the peripheral part. The roman figures are a key element of the Cartier DNA so this preservation is very important. Only the I and the XII are really overlapped by the two displays.
Of course, this design will ring you a bell... it was actually used previously on a Tortue of the Collection Privée and I think it works better here. I only express my personal taste and I much prefer the case shape of the Santos Dumont than the Tortue one.
The successful design of the dial is also emphasized by the flawless finishings. It makes alternate the parts with guillochage and the parts used for the time display: the minute scales on the central part and the hours scale on the peripheral part. Two types of guillochage are combined: the main one creates sunrays effect from the central point of the watch. The second one is circular and used inside the power reserve display.
I have to confess that I have a soft love for the pink gold case design. The Santos Dumont case is now enlarged (and it is also thicker with a height of 9,3mm) what gives it more character. But the most important is preserved: its elegance. I explain this by its slender style and the flat bezel. Moreover, once put on the wrist, the lugs seem to become very shy: the perceived size is smaller than it is actually. The lugs create a continuity with the case and it is an element of style of the original Santos Dumont watch. The case design is completed by the seven-sided crown set with a faceted sapphire. Thanks to this shape, it can handled very easily what is a good point for the daily handwind operation.
The watch features a solid caseback which is a good option due to the style of the watch:
The watch is powered by the caliber 9750 MC. The bottom indicator is at the end not so useful since due to the power reserve, the movement needs to be wound everyday. But who cares after all since this display nicely decorates the dial? The watch due to its design, its style, its atmosphere requires this daily contact with its happy owner. More than an elegant watch, the Cartier Santos Dumont Calendar Aperture Power Reserve is a life-style watch.
It is something which becomes clear when it is put on the wrist. Its charm is indisputable. Actually, there is something magic with it. You will not find any original detail if you observe each of them. But when considered as a whole, the watch manages to combine elegance with very subtle character and originality. Maybe a paradox for a watch which finds its roots in the beginning of the XXth Century... but this paradox is the main explaination of its successful design.
Fr.Xavier
More posts:
Hands on review of the Santos Dumont Calendar Aperture Power Reserve
It may be strange but we don't speak very often about the Santos Dumont line. I think it is a pity since these watches are a very good example of elegant watches with rectangular cases. Actually I should not use the word "rectangular". If we take the Sant...
Cartier Santos Dumont Aperture Power Reserve was under my radar
FrX Thank you for the review of a watch that had escaped my attention. The dial layout is uncommon and I agree that the arc aperture for date display usually receives criticism. However, I also agree that in the context of the power reserve arc display, i...
About Piaget...
I see an Emparador with a similar power reserve. I see another one with a similar date window. But I don't see a watch which gathers both. But maybe I am wrong. Thanks Melvyn! Fx
I like this Santos Dumount!
Great review Fx! Nice photos and your photos and review bring this watch to life. I like what I see and read, thanks for sharing cheers robin
