Cartier

As expected, Cartier was one of the most active and creative brands of the 2014 SIHH. It is not a surprise since Cartier has followed this trend for several years. Frankly speaking, who could imagine in 2006 that within 8 years, Cartier would become a very credible player in the high horology segment? That was at that time the target assigned to Carole Forestier and the development team and this target is achieved now.


There are several roles given to the high horology collection: of course to contribute by itself to the growth of the brand but also to improve the image of Cartier as a global and very credible watchmaking player. It is a bit a paradox. Cartier is one of the most famous brands in the world with a very long history which contains iconic timepieces but there was a need to create and to reinforce the image of a true Manufacture to meet the expectations of the market.


The collection presented this year is very important. Not only because of its quality, of its size. It is very important because it gathers some pieces which will be crucial for the strategy of the brand. I take only one example: the Calibre de Cartier Diver Watch is in my point of view, along maybe with the Automatic Reverso, the most strategic piece of the Salon. Why? Simply because Cartier has high expectations with it when it comes to sales figures and because it allows Cartier to enter a new territory, the segment of "casual" or "sports" watches.

I propose you to discover the key pieces of this collection with a brief description of them and my first feelings. Of course,  I will have the opportunity to come back with detailed presentations during the year.

I would like to start with my fav watch of the collection: the Tank Louis Cartier skeleton sapphire.

This watch is a perfect demonstration of the expertise of the Cartier Manufacture but at the same time, I consider it as the meeting point between two universes: the universe of fine watchmaking and the universe of elegance.


Being a Tank Louis Cartier, the watch has very balanced proportions with a very slender style enhanced by the flat case sides. I love the contrast between the circular shape of the main bridge of the movement and the rectangular shape of the case. I love the feeling given by the movement which seems to float inside the case. Despite the purety of the design, the horological contents of the watch are also visible. At the top of the movement, we can observe the presence of the two barrels. The watch has a power reserve of 72 hours for a 4 hz frequency. It means that the power provided by the barrels is more used to influence the thrust and the accuracy than to get a longer power reserve. And honestly, winding the watch is such a beautiful experience (also for the eyes!) that I would not be happy to not do it on a daily basis!


The back of the movement is as beautiful as the front side. The watch is successful because it manages to perfectly integrate some details that are usually a bit out of context in skeleton watches like the barrels and the incabloc. Look at the balance wheel: it seems to be so delicate with its very thin and shy bridge...


The case size is well defined (30mm x 39,2mm), not too large, not too small, to take advantage of the visual effect given by the movement without losing the refined style this watch requires. On the wrist, the Tank Louis Cartier skeleton watch has a strong presence thanks to the mesmerizing movement. A true beauty and a star of the Salon.


Some data:
WG case
Size: 30mmx39,2mm
Thickness: 7,45mm
Handwind movement 9616MC - 4hz frequency - power reserve of 72 hours - 159 parts - 21 jewels


Pros:
+ a superb movement enhanced by the flawless finishings
+ a design achievement with  beautiful contrasts: blued hands/grey bridges, circular bridges/rectangular case shape
+ a very balanced size
+ the performances of the movement

Cons:
- let me think again to try to find one... but for the time being, except the folding clasp (I'm not a fan of the Cartier one), I didn't see any. I think that a buckle would have been more coherent with this watch.

The Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon was already known by the SIHH visitors since the press release was issued at the end of the year. It features a very unusal complication: the moonphase... on demand! But this poetic complication doesn't have to make us forget about the two others: the flying tourbillon and the second timezone display.


Actually, the main interest of the watch is the way it plays with the tourbillon. The tourbillon has a very active role here because it is used to display the moonphase thanks to the disk which symbolizes the moon and which finds its adequate location on demand in front of the tourbillon. It is a way to combine these two complications and also to make them play together. In a way, it creates a dynamic around the moonphase display which is usually a very static complication. So why not? At the beginning, I was not so attracted by the concept but I start to appreciate it more and more.


The second timezone is displayed thanks to a disk around the time subdial which allows to free space on the front side. The lapis-lazuli dial is very nicely made and it creates some spectacular shades of lights... in coherence with the moonphase complication and the poetic side of the watch.


In the past, I used to be disappointed by some renderings of Cartier movements on the back. It is absolutely not the case here: the movement 9440MC has a very original lay-out thanks to its semi-skeletonized finishings. I had the feeling to observe stars or a kind of intriguing web. It is one of the most convincing Cartier see through casebacks and a true feast for the eyes.


The Rotonde Earth and Moon is a heavy and large watch and its 47mm platinum case is easily felt on the wrist. Even if the size of the movement is large by itself (40mm!), I would have appreciated to see the same combo of complications in a smaller case. The 3D Roman numerals are a bit too present dial side for my taste and a more delicate context would have improved the magic side of the watch.


Some data:
Platinum case
Diameter: 47mm
Thickness: 16,65mm
Handwind movement 9440MC - 3hz frequency - power reserve of 72 hours - 362 parts - 40 jewels


Pros:
+ a charming way to combine the tourbillon and the moonphase display
+ the use of lapis-lazuli
+ the beauty of the movement on the back

Cons:
- the watch is large, heavy and thick so it will not fit the small wrists
- the 3D Roman numerals are visually too present dial side

We stay with a complicated Rotonde with the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendar. Even if it remains a large watch with a 45mm platinum case, I was seduced by the way this Rotonde plays with the complications. Like the Rotonde Earth and Moon, the watch combines two complications to create a very unusual dial lay-out. Actually I have never seen such way to display Perpetual Calendar and tourbillon together: the  tourbillon is litterally inserted inside the Perpetual Calendar zone. Can you imagine an arena with a tourbillon on its center? The Astrocalendar gives this feeling.


The flying tourbillon is surrounded by 3 circles used for the Perpetual Calendar data. These date are indicated thanks to moving blue windows. At the beginning, the Perpetual Calendar needs time to get used with it since the locations of the windows are never the same. The time is displayed thanks to a subdial located on top of the dial. The trouble is that the Perpetual Calendar zone is so huge that the time subdial is cut and that a large area of the scale is removed. In some hands positions, the legibility of time can be a bit difficult.


On the other hand, the movement 9459MC which powers the Astrocalendar is really impressive thanks to its easy use. All the data can be set by the crown except the days of the week which are set thanks to the pusher (the days always follow the same sequence). The original architecture of the movement, different from the usual Perpetual Calendar calibers was designed to make it more practical and more reliable. This automatic movement is nicely finished and decorated, quite appealing with the leap year indicator on the back side. But it is not as spectacular as the Earth and Moon one.


The Astrocalendar, despite 2mm less than the Earth and Moon is obviously a large watch. But it is the price to pay to get this spectacular area dedicated to the Perpetual Calendar data and the flying tourbillon. Our eyes are attracted by the tourbillon and we almost forget the time display on the top of the dial! An innovative and intriguing watch.


Some data:
Platinum case
Diameter: 45mm
Thickness: 15,1mm
Automatic movement 9459MC - 3hz frequency - power reserve of 50 hours - 382 parts - 51 jewels


Pros:
+ an original way to display the Perpetual Calendar data
+ the hypnotizing flying tourbillon
+ the efficient and easy to use automatic movement
+ the movement is nice to observe through the sapphire caseback

Cons:
- the legibility can be sometimes difficult due to the large segment of the scale which was removed
- the watch is large, thick and heavy and will not fit the small wrists, the price to pay to enjoy this original dial lay-out

Let's stay with a similar case size with the Rotonde de Cartier tourbillon chronograph. We find again the caliber 9438MC coming from Renaud&Papi in this Rotonde context (we previously saw it with the Pasha tourbillon chronograph). It features a minutes & seconds chronograph and a tourbillon with a 8 days power reserve.


Despite a rather classic context, it contains several original details like the power reserve indicator or the vertical bridge of the tourbillon. I appreciate the dial lay-out of this watch even if I'm sure that, due to the subdials locations and the diameter of the movement (34,6mm), the watch could have been a bit smaller and much thinner.


The movement gives a strange feeling: it is at the same time very enjoyable to observe thanks to its flawless finishings and its complexity but it is also a bit too concentrated and not homogeneously spread over the plate. Anyway, it remains a top handwind chronograph movement.


The Rotonde tourbillon chronograph is another impressive novelty from Cartier even if it doesn't have the same impact than the others of the high-end segment: its movement is not new and it lacks the magic side of the Earth and Moon or the Astrocalendar. Let's say it is dedicated to clients who look for a high horology Cartier watch with a more familiar context.


Some data:
Pink Gold case
Diameter: 45mm
Thickness: 16,4mm
Handwind movement 9438MC - 3hz frequency - power reserve of 8 days - 318 parts - 31 jewels





Pros:
+ the pleasure to find again the 8 days tourbillon chronograph movement
+ the overall finishings of the watch
+the dial lay-out

Cons:
- the feeling that the watch could have been smaller and thinner

We enter a different dimension now with the Rotonde Cartier Day and Night with retrograde moonphases. We all know the famous Rotonde with the Day and Night display on the top half and the numerals on the bottom half. It was one of my fav Cartier watches ever thanks to its charming way to display the hours with the Moon and the Sun. This watch created a different way to apprehend the flow of time with the slow motion of the top disk.


The watch is released again, featuring now an additional complication: the retrograde moonphases. The consequence is a larger case (43,5mm vs 42mm) but hopefully, the new Rotonde Day and Night stays very refined thanks to a balanced diameter/thickness (12,77mm) ratio. I have to confess that the choice of the additional complication is perfect. Actually, the watch uses the moon twice and it gives an almost mysterious atmosphere to this Rotonde. When you look at it for the first time, you don't understand how to read the time. But you quickly understand that you only have to follow the sun and the moon on the top while the minutes are indicated by a classic hand.


The Rotonde Day and Night, available in Pink Gold or in Palladium, is powered by the automatic movement 9912MC. Once again, Cartier improved the visual rendering of the movement which is nice to observe through the sapphire caseback despite, maybe, the feeling to be a bit too small for the case (this feeling doesn't exist dial side).


I had a lot of pleasure to put this Rotonde on the wrist: its originality, the way the retrograde moonphase display decorates the dial and the beauty of the day&night disk make this watch very appealing. Even if it doesn't reach the same level of enthusiasm than the Tank Louis Cartier skeleton sapphire, I was highly seduced by its beauty and its alternative time display.

Some data:
Pink Gold or Palladium case
Diameter: 43,5mm
Thickness: 12,77mm
Automatic movement 9912MC - 4hz frequency - power reserve of 48 hours - 290 parts - 44 jewels


Pros:
+ the pleasure to find again the day&night disk
+ the additional complication is perfect in this context
+ a refined watch with a sublt touch of mystery
+ balanced proportions despite a rather large diameter (43,5mm)

Cons:
- the movement 9912MC seems to be a bit too small on the caseback

I presented you at the end of the first half of 2013 the new Tank MC line. The Tank MC skeleton was a bit the flag bearer of the line thanks to its very contemporary skeletonized movement which highlighted the key features of the new Tank MC case.


This Tank MC skeleton is back with a two-tone movement which takes advantage of the contrast between black and pink. The movement 9619MC finds here a new dimension: the moving parts are more visible while the large Roman numerals (actually, the bridges of the movement) become more sober. The watch is also warmer than the first version thanks to the colour of the case material and the contrast between the case and the bridges.


It is a very different watch from the Tank Louis Cartier skeleton sapphire: the aesthetic approach is more powerful with the Tank MC while I consider the Tank Louis Cartier as a very delicate watch. I clearly prefer the Tank Louis Cartier for its subtlety but the Tank MC skeleton is a very valuable demonstration of what could be a successful contemporary skeleton watch. Its case is much larger than the Tank Louis Cartier one (34,5mm x 43,8mm) and so this watch is more dedicated to larger wrists without being outsized for people who also appreciate balanced watches.


Some data:
Pink Gold  case
Size: 34,5mm x 43,8mm
Thickness: 9,3mm
Handwind movement 9619MC - 4hz frequency - power reserve of 72 hours - 138 parts - 20 jewels


Pros:
+ the contrast between the case and the bridges colours
+ the contemporary skeleton style
+ the sensual curves of the Tank MC case
+ a watch which manages to be powerful without being outsized

Cons:
- since I saw the Tank Louis Cartier skeleton sapphire, I always have this watch in my mind...

As you can see, the 2014 high horology offer from Cartier is broad with a wide range of complications and different aesthetic approaches. The Rotonde case is the most used this year when it comes to complicated watches and I think it is an excellent idea. In the past, I thought that some complicated Calibre or Pasha were lacking the Cartier touch of elegance due to their bulky cases. I consider the Rotonde case as a good compromise between character and refinement.

It is also important to notice that the Ballon Bleu Flying Tourbillon is now available with a 39mm case in two versions:
- with a blue flinqué enamel dial
- with the classic dial


Obviously, it is the first version which is the most special: thanks to its dial decoration technique and its colour, the blue flinqué enamel dial Ballon Bleu Flying Tourbillon  is a very attractive watch which finds its roots in the history of Cartier. The decoration technique, the flinqué enamel, was previously used in artistic objects and it finds now a good context with this 39mm Ballon Bleu.


The purery of dial allows us to appreciate the guillochage which is covered with enamel. It is very difficult to combine guillochage and enamel since the process has to be repeated several times to get the targetted result and the appropriate shades of colours.


The movement which powers both watches is the 9452MC also used by the 46mm version. So the question I have is to know if a diameter around 42/43mm would have been the right size, the most suitable for any wrist rather than presenting 2 "extreme" sizes with 39mm and 46mm cases. Anyway, the beauty of the dial is indisputable and believe me, it is very difficult to capture with a camera the wide range of blue colours created by the lights on the dial.


The 39mm version of the Ballon Bleu Flying Tourbillon with the classic dial:







Let's stay in the Ballon Bleu collection. Cartier did an important move in its collection this year by presenting a thinner version of the Ballon Bleu case. With a slender diameter/thickness ratio (40mm/6,9mm), this thin Ballon Bleu becomes a very surprising watch. You can't imagine how the perception of the case, the feelings we have are changed due to this thinner height. I was a bit afraid at the first glance that the case could be felt as a "ladies'" case.



At the end, I felt more the elegance and the comfort on the wrist than a deeper inclanation towards the women' tastes. The Ballon Bleu case can be worn on men or ladies' wrists and it is still the same with this thinner version. An astonishing watch available in Pink Gold with silver or slate dials or with a gems set bezel. Please note than any of these watches doesn't feature a second hand.


This 40mm Ballon Bleu is powered by the handwind caliber 430MC (actually, the Piaget 430P), a right movement for a thin case.

Some data:
Pink Gold  case
Diameter: 40mm
Thickness: 6,9mm
Handwind movement 430MC


Pros:
+ a nice evolution of the Ballon Bleu case
+ the efficient 430MC movement, perfect in the context of a thin watch
+ a very elegant watch on the wrist and the Ballon Bleu character is preserved

Cons:
- the lack of second hand makes the dial very static

The gems set bezel version of the Ballon Bleu 40mm thin:







I propose you to have a closer look on the most important watch of the collection, the Calibre de Cartier Diver watch. As I said at the beginning of the article, this watch is important because Cartier has high expectations with it and because it allows Cartier to enter a new segment, the segment of the "sports" watch.


Cartier didn't have the right to fail  and I can easily imagine the pressure on the development team. Cartier had to demonstrate its skills with this watch and we all know that it is  more complicated to create a "blockbuster" in the segment of the Diver watches than an outstanding watch in the high horology range. Actually, Cartier could take advantage of a strong base to develop its diver watch: the Calibre de Cartier itself.


I remember very well when the Calibre was presented: at that time, I considered it as a very versatile watch. Maybe not an all-around one but it could be used in more casual conditions thanks to its quite powerful design (case shape, crown protector, large date window, large XII on top of the dial etc...). The evolution of this base made by Cartier is for me successful because the Calibre de Cartier Diver watch contains everything a diver watch requires without losing the Cartier touch. Following this road map was not easy but despite some strange details for a diver watch (roman numerals, the cabochon, the small second hand), I consider that Cartier achieved its objective.


The watch respects the technical requirements of ISO 6425 and I could appreciate the feeling while moving the unidirectional turning bezel. This bezel is coated with black ADLC and the visual result improves the perceived quality. The great asset of this Calibre Diver is that it features almost the same sizes than the "classic" Calibre: the diameters are equal (42mm), only the thickness is slightly bigger with the Diver watch (11mm vs 10mm). This achievement is key because the 300m waterproofness  doesn't bring any additional constraint and a client can really hesitate now between the two watches. And considering the beauty and the character of the Caliber Diver watch, I wonder if the latter could not become the most successful Calibre by far.


The Calibre Diver watch is powered obviously by the movement 1904MC already housed by the Calibre and other Cartier watches like the Tank MC Automatic. I remind you that this basic movement was designed with only one word in mind: efficiency. Efficiency when it comes to accuracy, to reliability and to the ability to service it easily. Its visual rendering is not breathtaking and in the context of the Diver watch, we don't really care. But we could feel that Cartier spent a lot of time to design it due to the clever technical details it contains (for example, the two barrels improve the thrust and accuracy and not really the power reserve of 48 hours).


The Calibre Diver is not a single watch but a full collection with several cases available: steel, Pink Gold, two tones. It will be available around May with a rubber strap and later this year with a bracelet.


I was seduced by this watch thanks to its nicely made details and the comfort on the wrist. I'm sure that it will become a star within the Cartier collection.

Some data:
Stainless Steel, Pink Gold and Two tones cases
Diameter: 42mm
Thickness: 11mm
Automatic movement 1904MC - Frequency: 4hz - Power reserve of 48 hours
Waterproofness: 300m

Pros:
+ a watch with an excellent perceived quality thanks to several details nicely made
+ the Cartier atmosphere like the Cabochon or the Roman numerals
+ the good diameter/thickness ratio
+ the comfort on the wrist
+ the efficient caliber 1904MC

Cons:
- I would have preferred a central second hand for a diver watch
- does Cartier still need the "classic" Calibre in its collection now?

The Pink Gold version:

I would like to finish the report with several pictures of the Cartier d'Art collection. They display several decoration techniques like the Falcon which is directly engraved on MOP dial and embellished with gold leaf. These watches deserve in-depth presentations of the techniques which are used to achieve such dials and I will come back later this year about them.

The report is over now and I hope that I managed to faithfully forward you the feelings I experienced at the SIHH while browsing the 2014 Cartier collection. It is a broad collection with a lot of technical and artistic features. It is the reason why the Cartier forum on PuristSPro will propose you during the year more articles about these features which explain why Cartier is now a major player in the high horology segment.

I would like to thank a lot the Cartier team for the warm welcome and the time they spent with me during the SIHH.

Fr.Xavier

More posts: Ballon BleuCalibre de CartierCalibre De Cartier DiverFlying TourbillonPashaRotondeTankTank Louis CartierTank MC

  login to reply