MTF
[PuristS]
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Short review CARTIER Tortue Ladies watches: Pre-SIHH 2014

The Tortue (tortoise) watch shape was created in 1912, which, was very early in the history of wristwatches.

The "first" wristwatch was designed as a private gift to the pioneer aviator Santos-Dumont in 1904 but commercial versions did not appear until 1911.

The Tortue shape became "an instant success" to use a popular phrase of that era, when instant coffee also appeared. The memorable name and shape like a tortoise made it one of Cartier’s most desirable models.

Medium

For 2014, the timeless appeal of Tortue is reinterpreted with feminine charm.

There are two sizes: medium or small,

In pink or white gold,

With metal bracelet or alligator leather strap.

Small

The logic is leather strap for daytime use and gold bracelet for evening wear.

Of course, there are different degrees of gem-setting to suit the occasion.

Medium pink gold Tortue with alligator strap

Upfront, I like them as "fit for purpose" because they are an evolution of design rather than iconic stagnation.

The purpose is to lighten the style and curves on a watch for the modern woman.
 
Since the beginning, the House of Cartier has not been afraid to introduce new watch shapes and even updated versions of their iconic designs. The most important driver is the Customer and there is a demand for smaller and thinner Tortue, with cleaner lines for ladies.

The market growth in Asia with slender wrists and the fact is slimmer watches "catch" less on clothes and other accessories. Those two factors alone would justify a re-design.

Medium white gold Tortue with gold bracelet and diamond-set bezel

The medium size case measures 31 mm x 39 mm and it houses the "ultra-thin" 430MC mechanical movement.

Cartier kept their design codes of silver-white guilloche dial with Roman numerals and the rail-track minute markers. Without seconds hand or date display, the designs are clean and elegant.

The subtle modern changes are:

1. Sword-shape hands instead of the ‘Breguet’ (pomme) hands that some people consider old-fashioned from the 18th century A.L. Breguet design.
2. Flat sapphire facets replace traditional domed watch-glass, to lighten every curve on the watch.

The availability of hand-wind mechanical movements like the ultra-thin 430MC and the 8970MC make them obvious choices to power the medium and small Tortue respectively.

Small pink gold Tortue with gold bracelet and diamond-set bezel

The small size case measures 24 mm x 30 mm and houses the 8970MC mechanical movement.

Small white gold Tortue with alligator strap and diamond-set bezel

What do you think?

Regards,

MTF

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