A visit to Cartier Tradition - the restoration and sale of vintage Cartier

Jun 04, 2011,09:52 AM
 

There are few watch or jewellery houses with a substantial enough history to sustain an in-house antiques department. Cartier, fortunately, has history in troves. So in an anonymous and drab building in Geneva lies Cartier Tradition, entirely dedicated to restoring and selling vintage Cartier objects. It is headed by Bernhard Berger, who is at the same time a collector, antiques dealer and historian.

 


 

The hallway leading to the Cartier Tradition offices is lined with royal warrants from past clients 

 

Cartier has had a long history selling vintage items, especially at its London store. In fact Cartier sometimes incorporated antique objects into its jewellery in the past.

 

Below: 1925 Cartier brooch incorporating Egyptian artefact

 


 


 

 

With an average of 500 items in stock, ranging from small objects to mystery clocks with seven figure price tags, Cartier Tradition typically displays its items at the Cartier boutiques in London, Paris and New York.

 


 

Ultra-rare Mystery Clock Model A decorated with Kingfisher feathers 

 

Cartier Tradition obtains its stock from dealers, collectors and on occasion at auction. Though it uses auction prices as a guide, its prices are typically higher than market average, reflecting the quality and assurance of buying from Cartier.

 

All items from Cartier Tradition are restored and certified by Cartier. To that end Cartier Tradition has three full time watchmakers doing restoration. The watchmakers are also capable of making simple parts for restoration thanks to the lathes on the premises. More complex restoration can be done at the manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds.

 


 


 


 


 


 


 

Above: Mehdi Sqalli from Cartier Paris (left) and Bernhard Berger of Cartier Tradition

 


 

Mr Berger's vintage Tank

 

What it sells is certainly not for everyone, but for a very specific clientele Cartier Tradition plays a very valuable role. For collectors of its vintage Cartier seeking items of the highest quality and impeccable provenance Cartier Tradition is the ideal purveyor.

   

- SJX

 

Here is a sample of what Cartier Tradition had in stock during my visit last year, this is not a reflection of current availability.

 

The wristwatches... 

 


 

Several vintage Tank watches with original gold bracelets 

 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 

The clocks... 

 


 


 


 


 

Note the EWC engraving below 

 


 


 


 

And a pair of works in progress - an ultra-slim chronograph and a JLC 101 micro-calibre 

 


 

The chonograph with an beautiful EWC ebauche 

 


 


 

Note the elegant shape of the bridges and levers 

 


 


 

Ultra-slim  

 


 


 

And the smallest mechanical movement ever 

 


 


 


 


 

This message has been edited by SJX on 2011-06-04 10:04:53


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Nice post, SJX.

 
 By: Davo : June 4th, 2011-15:52
I didn't know there was such a place specialising in vintage Cartiers. Must be a mecca for those hunters and collectors.

intriguing

 
 By: playtime : June 4th, 2011-19:41
must be an intriguing occupation--involves a historical sense, a technical savvy, and an artistic flare. very cool! thx for sharing J

Thank you for..

 
 By: Roni M : June 5th, 2011-03:46
a wonderful insight. No doubt this Dept within the company goes some way to reinforce and substantiate the brand's heritage which is a key aspect of its positioning and marketing strategy. its a shame however that the main boutiques in London and New York... 

Unfortunately vintage pieces are a very niche product

 
 By: SJX : June 5th, 2011-06:25
so as you note selection is not always the best. However, Cartier Tradition does source items on clients' behalf. A client should speak to his sales representative who can then convey the request to Cartier Tradition. Some of the items Cartier Tradition s... 

Beautiful collection

 
 By: docsnov : June 6th, 2011-20:52
What pieces was the small mechanical movement used in? I would guess the slim tank watches you showed due to the shape. Do they plan on putting the movement back in a watch or selling it as a stand alone historical item? Thanks for the post. I love Cartie... 

Ladies watches mostly

 
 By: SJX : June 6th, 2011-21:03
The following photo shows a Cartier with the JLC 403 Duoplan movement, larger than the 101 but similar. The 101 was mostly used in pieces similar to this, very tiny ladies watches, with jewels or without. It was also used in pendants, cufflinks and other ...  

i notice that these watch houses often look so homely

 
 By: xsw : June 11th, 2011-04:38
must be a great place to work

Very interesting...Thank you [nt]

 
 By: walfalah89 : June 11th, 2011-07:07
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