A look at the Calibre de Cartier on bracelet

Apr 15, 2011,21:24 PM
 

Last year Cartier launched at Calibre de Cartier, a new design intended to be the flagship men's sports watch. The model has been a hit, especially amongst buyers who previously would not have bought a Cartier because of the perception that they are too formal or feminine. Aside from the aesthetics, the other key attraction of the Calibre is the 1904 MC calibre, the first in-house automatic movement from the brand. But the Calibre de Cartier was only available with an alligator strap, which limited its appeal in some quarters, especially for a watch designed to be sporty.

Cartier has since remedied that with the Calibre de Cartier on bracelet, launched at SIHH 2011 in January. The bracelet models are just hitting the boutiques now.



All the Calibre de Cartier models - steel, steel and gold, and all gold - are available on the bracelet. The bracelet has a simple design, with alternating large and small links with brushed and matte finishing. And like all bracelet bracelets it is hefty and well finished (though admittedly I think the finishing on the Santos bracelet is a small step up). 

Here it is in steel: 




And in rose gold: 




And in steel and rose gold:


 


Each bracelet link is also curved to match the lines of the lugs. The links are fixed with a pair of screws.




The clasp is a solid double fold with push buttons.




Cartier makes these bracelets in-house at La Chaux-de-Fonds. The raw components are machined here.


And then deburred by hand.


Before being given their final finish by hand.


Now all that's missing is a rubber strap for the Calibre de Cartier. 

- SJX

This message has been edited by SJX on 2011-04-15 21:39:19


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I like the bracelet design, but am not a fan

 
 By: docsnov : April 16th, 2011-03:02
of bracelets in general. Bracelet plus a good size watch is a little heavy for me. This is just my opinion, but the Calibre is my least favorite Cartier men's model. It seems to me that in an attempt to be more "masculine" the watch loses some of the styl... 

Oddly enough that is what Cartier wants

 
 By: SJX : April 16th, 2011-07:47
at least the first half of your response: "be more "masculine". They'd insist this is still Cartier style though. - SJX

Bravo to Cartier...

 
 By: chaser579 : April 16th, 2011-06:34
Not exactly my 'cup o'tea' either, but definitely see the Rolex-y influence on the bracelet. Just wish the rose gold and stainless bracelet was all rose gold down the middle, the 'every other link is gold' makes it a bit clown-ish. Great dial and movement... 

Yes that is what I wrote in my SIHH report

 
 By: SJX : April 16th, 2011-07:49
The bracelet is certainly Oyster inspired, though that's not entirely fair as the Oyster bracelet is so elementary anything with square links looks similar. The alternating gold/steel links are a good idea I think, if it's a band of gold all the way down ... 

Nice work.

 
 By: Davo : April 16th, 2011-06:41
Thanks for the great look behind the scenes, SJX.

education: finishing

 
 By: xsw : April 17th, 2011-08:26
Everytime someone mentions a watch has good finishing what does it actually means? The shine of the metal--The quality? What do I look out for to inspect for finishing? *New at these watch concepts so thanks in advance for the education! This message has ...  

For a bracelet

 
 By: SJX : April 17th, 2011-08:32
There are couple of things in my opinion. They include the fineness/consistency of the brushed finish, whether the edges are bevelled and polished, the finish on the underside of the bracelet. Finishing is of course a separate issue from construction of t... 

How would you compare it to

 
 By: ArthurSG : April 21st, 2011-01:33
say... JLC bracelet finishing for example.....

Depends

 
 By: SJX : April 21st, 2011-05:58
I find Cartier bracelets have more complex finishing, e.g. polished bevelled edges with brushed top for the Santos bracelet, but some JLC bracelet have fairly intricate construction e.g. the Reverso bracelet with seven links across. However I think JLC ha... 

Quick question about the Black Model

 
 By: bah : April 17th, 2011-21:51
While you do not show the Calibre de Cartier in black steel, I had a chance to see it at one of their boutiques. I was surprised to discover that the number XII in that particular watch is rendered in bright white color, unlike the one I have, which has t... 

Are you referring to the black dial?

 
 By: SJX : April 17th, 2011-22:21
The steel model with black dial has the XII filled with black lacquer. I do not believe there is a model with the XII in white lacquer. - SJX

yes, I refer to the black dial in steel

 
 By: bah : April 17th, 2011-22:59
and I saw it at the Cartier store in San Francisco, as well as in Geneva.

You are right

 
 By: SJX : April 17th, 2011-23:37
The black dial with white XII is the new dial which was just launched to replace the old one. - SJX

Here's a picture

 
 By: SJX : April 18th, 2011-02:57
...  

That new look is not as nice

 
 By: bah : April 18th, 2011-08:07
Thank you for your replies. This is the one I saw. Quite frankly, I think that the one with the XII in black is more subdued and elegant, giving the watch both a sporty and dressy look. In my opinion the white XII cheapens it.

I actually didn't notice

 
 By: SJX : April 18th, 2011-08:13
when I saw the whole bracelet collection the other day. I only glanced at the black dials, because I like the white dial versions better. I will take a closer look at the new black dial variants soon. - SJX

30m water resistance can stay in heavy rain?

 
 By: viquyen89 : April 29th, 2011-02:36
I have come to a boutique in Sydney to try on this watch in black dial with leather strap. I like how the case fit on my small wrist, it felt very comfortable to wear and that made me fall in love with it in the first try. But I'm worried about the water ... 

Yes, definitely

 
 By: SJX : April 29th, 2011-05:26
Rain, washing hand etc, is not a problem for the watch. But as you rightly point out the leather strap does not take well to water. If you do get the strap wet best to let it dry out for a day or two before wearing it again. - SJX

If that's right, it'a great news for me

 
 By: viquyen89 : April 29th, 2011-06:32
When i went to Cartier boutique to try on the Cablire de Cartier, i also went to Tag Heuer to try on a Grand Carrera and i asked them about the water resistance, they said 30m water resistance is like no water contact at all. All you can do with that watc... 

Pressure resistance

 
 By: SJX : April 29th, 2011-06:40
Strictly speaking 30 m is a rating for pressure resistance, i.e. the watch has been tested to equivalent 30 m of water pressure under static conditions. Usually watch companies test a bit more, for instance 50 or 100 m equivalent, just to be safe. A heavy... 

Thanks

 
 By: viquyen89 : April 29th, 2011-19:09
Thank SJX, your information is really helpful. Hope i can take some wrist shot soon

FormOverFunction?

 
 By: Timertom : April 27th, 2011-11:45
Nice, But a thought that came to mind... ... regarding the steel and gold watch bracelet, I'd have thought it made far more sense to keep the center links of the strap made of harder wearing, steel and reserve the gold parts for the parts that don't 'mesh... 

There are ways of protecting links

 
 By: SJX : April 27th, 2011-19:33
One way of preventing excess wear and tear on gold links is to line them with a more durable material, perhaps even plastic, so that the spring bar or tube only comes into contact with the lining. And to prevent stretching it can be done by making the lin... 

SJX about the finishing again?

 
 By: walfalah89 : April 28th, 2011-19:29
Thank you for your great forum.. I wish to ask you how to inspect the case finishing including the dial and the exposed side of the movement on the back? Thanks with best regards

A few things

 
 By: SJX : April 28th, 2011-20:01
That is something for a very long article but a few things you can look at for the dial include the quality of the printing (sharpness, thickness), quality of the indices (whether they are applied, precisely cut shapes), hands (thickness, shape, colour if... 

Thanks

 
 By: walfalah89 : April 29th, 2011-12:26
Thanks

The bracelets amplify the brutish inelegance of the line

 
 By: sipher07 : April 30th, 2011-11:53
Looks tacky, big and definitely not Cartier. I can understand they want to do a sporty watch to sell, but this is dilutive to the brand. Santos 100 was such a masculine angular Cartier. Ballon Bleu was a Dandy Man's Cartier. Roadster was very unique. All ... 

That is very harsh

 
 By: SJX : April 30th, 2011-23:59
but you are entitled to your opinion. As I've written before, it was created to broaden Cartier's appeal especially amongst consumers who otherwise would not consider a Cartier - you are not one of them. - SJX