Cartier

SJX
[Purist]
8540

• Show profile
• Show other posts

Part I: Case

A whole new look

I love the look and finish of the case. The design, especially the prominent lugs, is somewhat reminiscent of the Gerald Genta Gefica but more refined; more city than Safari.

At 42 mm the watch is not enormous but possesses presence owing to the broad lugs and large crown guard. It can sometimes appear larger than 42 mm and the perception of size is enhanced by the narrow bezel and large dial. But it sits very well on the wrist thanks to the curve of the lugs.

The width of the case, however, is complemented by an unexpected slimness. At only 10 mm high, the watch has an elegant diameter-to-height ratio giving it a pleasing profile on the wrist.

Another well thought out element on the case are the hoods over the ends of the leather strap which makes the strap appear to be integrated into the case when in reality it is a regular straight-ended strap secured by screwed bars. The hood over the strap also completes the aesthetic coherence of the case by bridging the gap between the lugs and continuing the curve of the crown guard.

The construction and finish of the case is truly excellent and better than many comparable watches in this price bracket. Brushed surfaces are fine and evenly finished while the lugs have prominent polished bevels. Even the concave underside of the lugs are adequately finished, even if not as well as on the top and sides. 

Below: Hand-finishing of the lugs at Cartier manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds  

The attention to detail extends to the crown guard which is polished on the side and set with a pair of brushed steel inserts secured by screws.

The crown is friction fit and water resistance is 30 m. Like the Santos, the crown has seven facets and is set with the trademark sapphire. The blue stone is a subtle touch and the only element of colour in an otherwise monochromatic watch.

Ordinarily a stone in the crown results in a more formal or even feminine look but Cartier cleverly recessed it so the stone sits flush with the crown. As such the sapphire is only evident from the side and not visible when reading the time.

The case back is secured by 8 screws with traditional slotted heads. A display back reveals the movement that admittedly looks a bit small. Notwithstanding the small movement, the proportions of the dial and front of the watch are perfect.

The case is well designed and also well finished – I give it high marks.

Site Info.