Cartier

Geo
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First meeting with the 'Calibre de Cartier'

A little while ago I went with three friends to a local AD, who had organized a Richemont 'new models' show.
My friends know my love for the brand, but they are more into the little larger less elegant watches.
So I was very curious to see their reaction, since they had not seen the Calibre yet.

While many of Cartier's models are suitable for men and women, The 'Calibre the Cartier'
is really designed with the self-assured men in mind.
The 42mm case has very masculine design elements, like the wide and nicely designed crown guards
and the robust lugs.



A watch with 42 mm case is not a small watch and when I saw the press shots, before the watch was launched,
I was afraid that that the case could be quite chunky.
For me it's always important that a watch also fits under a cuffed shirt.



No problem with the Calibre, the case is pretty flat and fitted with ease under my cuff.
I made some wrist shots of my friend trying the Calibre but please pardon me for the photographs,
inside it was not that easy.
The Calibre has the new folding buckle; the double adjustable.
Cartier invented the Folding buckle and had the patent for many years.
In my opinion it was always the most beautiful system and most handsome buckle available on the market.
The change to make it double, adjustable, I really dislike very much and I do hope that the 'normal' version
remains available.
Otherwise I have to hamster a few for the future. LOL!

While three of us were quite impressed with the steel version with the white dial
we just had to see the gold version with diamonds too.
Cartier has always been famous for their diamond versions and while I appreciate diamonds
a lot, even on a mens watch, I find the Calibre case a bit too sporty or too butch to have diamonds.
I rather see diamonds combined with the Tank Americaine, Tortue, Ballon bleu or even the Pasha.



My favorite version of the Calibre is the pink gold version with brown alligator strap.
The gold has a very nice and warm tone and is a good match for the silvered opaline dial.
Very powerful watch.



There has always been discussion, among collectors, about the fact that Cartier used ETA movements
for their midrange watches like the Pasha, Santos 100 or Roadster.
Besides the fact that I have always been very happy with these very strong reliable movements,
I still was thrilled about the fact, when I heard that Cartier had build a completely new movement,
for this watch.
In fact it is the first automatic movement build in house, by Cartier.
That's why it's named after the year of birth, of Cartiers first wrist watch, the Santos Dumont, which was 1904.



The Caliber 1904MC is IMHO, a very sexy looking movent, that one can't miss when turning the watch slightly,
in fact the whole back of the watch looks very strong, so masculine and well designed.
Quite a different approach from the more elegant dress watches.
Visible through the transparent sapphire crystal case back of the watch, the upper bridges
and oscillating weight are decorated with the traditional Côtes de Genève.
Even the main plate is circular- grained, despite the fact that it is hidden by the movement’s components.

The calibre 1904 MC is fitted with a fine regulation system for perfect adjustment of the movement’s chronometry.
Carried out by Cartier watchmakers, who meticulously adjust the arrow of the C-shaped index,
this operation is essential to the accurate running of the watch.
To enable to set the watch accurately to the nearest second, the calibre 1904 MC is equipped
with a stop-seconds system.
When the crown is pulled out fully, the small-seconds hand stops instantly and immediately restarts
once the crown is pushed back in against the case.

As mentioned earlier, he Caliber 1904MC is an automatic movement, so when the watch is worn on the wrist,
a bi-directional winding system enables the oscillating weight to wind the movement as it rotates,
both clockwise and anti-clockwise!
The power reserve is 48 hours.

While we have only seen the 'time only' models of the Calibre, at this presentation,
Cartier also released a Tourbillon Volant and the Chronograph Central in the same case,
but slightly larger, 45mm to be exact and both in pink or white gold.
With a case design this versatile, I wonder what Calibre variations will be added in the future.

GEO

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