Cartier

SJX
[Purist]
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Live from Geneva and La Chaux-de-Fonds: Exclusive photos of incredible watches past and present

This is the first ever wristshot of the ID One, anywhere.

The ID One is of course Cartier's concept watch that is lubrication free and not necessary to regulate (click here to read an in-depth explanation of the ID One). Beyond its remarkable innovations, the ID One is itself very attractive in the metal. It is lightweight with a very distinctive aesthetic that has subtle hints that it is a Cartier.

At 46 mm the ID One is identical in dimensions to the Ballon Bleu tourbillon. Though it's a large watch the dark colour of the case and dial make it appear smaller. Its lightweight titanium-niobium alloy case allows it to sit comfortably on the wrist as well.

The ID One looks and feels a lot cooler than I thought it would. If it were made for sale - which it will not - it would sell well. Importantly, it is not just a pretty face, the ID One contains developments that might one day become tremendously significant in watchmaking.

And since I can't bear to withhold much from this forum, this is the second ever wristshot of the ID One.

And yesterday, I was privileged to visit Collection Cartier in Geneva, where Cartier's historical collection is housed in an anonymous looking building. Comprising about 1000 pieces of watches, clocks, jewellery and objets d'art. It is probably the largest collection of Cartier items in the world.

Everything on display was incredible, ranging from mystery clocks to brilliantly enamelled items. 

A standout was the minute repeater Tortue from the 1920s with an EWC movement (which used a LeCoultre ebauche). Only one has ever been sold at auction and it went for several hundred thousand francs. Though the chimes were too fast paced, the clarity and volume of the repeater was superb.

Surprisingly the minute repeater is adequately sized to be wearable today, unlike the Tortue chronograph monopoussoir (above, right) is too small by today's standards. Interesting it was not the only watch that is reasonably sized by modern standards. An 8-days Tank from the 1930s also had fairly modern proportions.

And in between the pair of Tortue watches above is a pair of rare, vintage Santos watches.

Also on shown was an assortment of pocket watches, including a grande complication, a minute repeater with jumping hour, two mystery pocket watches (one contemporary and the other vintage), an early automatic pocket watch with power reserve display and an ultra-slim 24-hour pocket watch. I particularly liked the 24-hour pocket watch. It is wonderfully slim and elegant, yet eccentric thanks to its time display.

The stark contrast between the ID One and the vintage Cartier watches serve to reinforce the multi-faceted identity of Cartier. It is a jeweller with a storied history, in watchmaking, as well as a watchmaker with a deep committment to innovation. Very few other companies, be they watchmakers or jewellers, can illustrate their past and future so vividly.

And I finish with a photo of an incredible watch, for the sole reason that it was disassembled and reassembled (save for the tourbillon regulator) by the moderator of this forum. Here it is midway through its destruction.

- SJX

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