SJX
[Purist]
8540
Breaking news: Changes to Geneva Seal announced
Last year in my conversations with several executives of Geneva based brands the topic of upcoming changes to the Geneva Seal was often mentioned. The criteria for the seal had not changed in many years and it was losing prestige bit by bit, especially after Patek Philippe abandoned it in favour of its own Patek seal. Cartier of course has the Geneva Seal on its flying tourbillon calibres made in Geneva.
Finally the changes have been announced by the Geneva Laboratory of Horology and Microengineering, also known as TIMELAB, which administers the Poinçon de Genève, at a press conference in Geneva yesterday.
The changes to the seal are significant. The criteria for movement finishing have been made more stringent, in keeping with haute horlogerie standards. But more notable are the new criteria beyond movement finishing in two categories:
-
Certification of the cased watch, to ensure water-resistance, accuracy, power reserve and functions. For example the watch must be +/- 1 minute or less after seven days on a machine simulating the motions of the wearer. Water-resistance, power reserve and functions must meet the figures promised by the manufacturer.
- Casing-up criteria, which dictates the manner in which the movement is housed in the case, for instance clamps and braces must be finished and the screws holding them must be polished
Details of the changes to the seal are available on TIMELAB's site in PDF format .
At the press conference, Thierry Lamoroux, Director of Watchmaking Development Marketing Cartier,at the press conference - Cartier may be a brand but Thierry is one of the faces of Cartier watchmaking
These changes, driven by brands like Cartier, bring the Geneva Seal in line with Qualite Fleurier, which though impressive never gained widespread acceptance. So this leaves COSC as the other major certification that has yet to change.
All the new criteria come into force on 1 June 2012 and brands have until 1 June 2013 to comply.
- SJX
Some of the Fine Watchmaking tourbillons with Geneva Seal
This message has been edited by SJX on 2011-11-10 06:36:55
More posts:
Breaking news: Changes to Geneva Seal announced
Last year in my conversations with several executives of Geneva based brands the topic of upcoming changes to the Geneva Seal was often mentioned. The criteria for the seal had not changed in many years and it was losing prestige bit by bit, especially af...
Cartier factory is in La Chaux-de-Fonds
How does Cartier get a Geneva Seal on their watches if their factory is in La Chaux-de-Fonds? Do they maintain a small office in the Canton Of Geneve to finish the assembly in the geographic area? Regards, MTF
Tourbillon movements are made in Geneva
Cartier owns and runs one floor in the Roger Dubuis factory in Geneva where its tourbillons are made. Those are Cartier premises and RD staff can't access them (I tried). The flying tourbillon movement Cartier uses is of course based on the Roger Dubuis f...
Thanks. I searched the Internet
using the infamous 'Goo-word' search engine and only found a Geneva Cartier boutique address. I forgot about the Roger Dubuis factory. Thanks. MTF
Do movements have to be visible
to earn the Geneva seal? I know it seems logical they would be visible, but many of these companies finish movements with the same techniques even if they are going in a case with a solid back. Just wondering. Stewart
That is not a requirement though in practice...
though in practice movement with Geneva Seal are almost always under display back today. In the more modest past it was not the case so you can find watches from the 90s that have solid case back, like VC for example. - SJX
A few thoughts
With the additional criteria on accuracy, will the charges imposed for getting Geneva Seal be increased? If yes, I believe the watches with Geneva Seal after the effective date will be relatively more expensive. Will the brands producing watches with Gene...
Geneva Seal does not test function
Ling, The Geneva Seal does not test time keeping function (accuracy and precision) like COSC test. Neither does it test the durability of a complete watch like Qualite Fleurier. Geneva Seal is primarily a certificate of authentic assembly in Geneva to cer...
That is no longer accurate from 2012
With the changes to the Poincon de Geneve the seal now encompasses functional and accuracy criteria, in addition to the traditional movement aesthetic/decorative criteria. - SJX
Thanks Melvyn.
If I read it correctly from SJX post, there will be new criteria imposed by Geneva Seal, ie. accuracy +/- 1 minute after 7 days. Does that mean they will test accuracy? Regards Ling
Yes: As SJX noted....2012 is a new game.
They had to move with the times as the way was shown by Qualite Fleurier and even COSC changed their standards. Of course, Patek Philippe leaving Geneva Seal had a big impact since they were the most famous user in the past. There is still no 'destruction...
